Eat local III

By Kevin Cherkas

DAY 4: SALMON

Cuca's Smoked Butterfish

Buying salmon at the super market no matter how fresh feels a bit like cheating. You lose the connection with the ocean, the smell of the sea and the respect for the beautiful animals beneath. There is something magical about fishing or the next best thing, waiting at the dock in hopes the small boats of skilled local fishermen had better luck than you and actually caught you dinner. On a fine late afternoon, Captain Tasty was happy to see his first customers and a little shocked as normally he sells wholesale and it is apparently not normal to stalk fishermen at the docks. Luckily for us, he had fish and what absolutely beautiful fish they were… We bought a salmon and ran home happy. Cutting the fish in half and keeping the skin on, I rubbed the meat gently with a thin layer of apricot jam we got at the farmers market, cracked pepper, sea salt and citrus zest. After 2 hours in the chiller to allow the goodness to soak in, we fired up the BBQ, soaked some wood chips and basically built a hot smoker. Put the fish in and 90 minutes later, low and lovely, I removed a just cooked, light caramel colored smoky fish candy. Try to buy that at the supermarket.

Now you may not have access to Captain Tasty, salmon, a BBQ or even Canada for that matter, but we assure you that making a reservation is very easy and Cuca serves one hell of a cold smoked butterfish from the tropical waters of Bali with whipped yogurt, zucchini pickles and garlic parsley crumbs.

Eat local II

By Kevin Cherkas

DAY 2: DUNGENESS CRAB

Cuca's Rice Crusted Soft Shell Crab

This was the product I most looked forward to, even before leaving Bali. I just love it. The last thing I want to eat before I die, the thing I tell everyone they must have when visiting British Columbia, the reason to even considering travelling to Canada in the first place and a damn good motivation to be alive is Dungeness Crab. Filling the bottom of a big pot with medium sized river stones practically covered with pure salty ocean water, the crabs are cleaned, lovingly placed inside and covered with a lid. The fire is cranked up and just when the lid begins to dance with the pressure of steam, you count 6 minutes, turn off the heat and slightly pull back the lid to slowly release the steam. 10 minutes later you are welcomed to heaven by Mr. and Mrs. Dungeness. Just a big container for shells as table setting and the fingers-only eating begins… Sections of leg and body are precisely pulled apart and recklessly cracked with molars. Full flavored, nutty, delicate morsels of meat are quickly dipped in melted butter before being devoured for a much needed but unnecessary confirmation. Yup, it’s still the best.


A close second to this baby? Soft Shell crab. If you unfortunately are too far from Canada to eat Dungeness, hopefully you are close enough to Cuca to try our Rice Crusted Soft Shell Crab. 


DAY 3: LAMB

Driving by a small farm the sign in front read “LAMB”. Treating it like a stop sign we braked and hooked a left ending up awkwardly parked in the front yard of a stranger’s house. In the background you could hear the “Baaaa Baaa” of these beautiful locally raised animals walking around the property. Knocking on the door my greeting was a simple “Hello, I like lamb.”They invited us in and we made the deal: leg of lamb and the additional bonus of a few apples from the tree where we parked. Dinner was in motion. Rubbing down the lamb with garlic, parsley, lemon zest, olive oil, black pepper and love and turning on the BBQ, the lamb was given a slow gentle browning over soft blue flames. From there transferred to a pot, lid on and cooked slowly for about 5 hours. Finally the meat was removed to cool, the juice put aside and the apples roasted. Dinner was served. I like lamb and strangers a lot.

Cooking and eating to be continued...

Eat local

By Kevin Cherkas

After five years not returning like a salmon to my spawning grounds, we had the opportunity last month to plan a trip to Canada for a short little break in the action. The truth is, any trip we take is always planned around food. It is never only about eating but also about hunting down those wonderful things that are truly special and unique to that specific area.  As we prove it in Cuca day in and day out, our philosophy is to go as local as possible and we follow this religiously even on holidays.

Cooking food at home is a very different experience compared to that of a restaurant. It is not only the precision, the stress or the fast pace demanded of chefs, I am talking also about why people fall in love with the craft of cooking in the first place, how at home you can take a whole day to slowly prepare a meal with attention and love. This is why I make a point of cooking at home every time I have the opportunity as it is (apart from greatly appreciated by Virginia) like therapy, meditation and a much needed break from my day to day life,

Now back to my story, we made our way to Salt Spring Island, a small island just outside of where I grew up and a quick float plane ride or ferry trip from Vancouver. Waking up in the morning surrounded by deep dark green wilderness and the isolated coastal beauty of British Colombia you can see why the meat, fish and vegetables live a happy undisturbed life that does not go unnoticed when consumed by those lucky enough to stay for dinner. With 4 days and a proper kitchen we planned to take full advantage of the island's organic markets, local farms and fishing spots. 

DAY 1: MUSSELS

One of my favorite foods has to be mussels. I can however understand why people do not share this opinion as it is easy to end up with overcooked shrunken seafood gummy bears in big empty black shells. But when the mussels are much heavier than they appear (like a ripe melon) and come from cold nutrient filled waters, it can easily become an expensive addiction. Straight from the dock on that beautiful autumn afternoon, the famous local mussels were my only worry with 6 hours until dinner; no stress, no pressure, just some quiet quality time with me and my new shiny purple friends. A small amount of heat is enough to release open a mussel but these bad boys held on for dear life till eventually opening to expose beautiful bright orange, massive sized, tender seafood balloons. Eating our way slowly through the Japanese chawanmushi-like custard bulging from inside its thick powerful shells, everything else faded away and my new friends delivered by far the best experience a mussel had to offer. One thing is for sure: whenever we open in Canada, mussels will be on the menu. 

Day 2, 3 & 4 of finding, cooking and eating to be continued...