Today we are “celebrating” Nyepi, the Balinese New Year, 1935 in the lunar ‘saka’ (Hindu) calendar. The island started to get ready for this event three days ago, when ‘Melasti’ kept Balinese busy. This cleansing ritual consists of taking all the God statues from the village temples to the rivers or the sea to be bathed and purified by the Neptune of the Balinese Lord, the God Baruna.
Last night was the climax of the preparation for the New Year as an island-wide exorcism ceremony was held at each village main cross road, which is the known meeting place of demons. At sunset we witnessed in shock how villagers paraded their fearsome Ogoh-Ogoh, monsters that symbolize the evil spirits surrounding us. Some of these giants are taken from classical Balinese folklore but all have fangs, bulging eyes and dramatic haircuts. The procession is illuminated by torches and accompanied by Balinese gamelan music. At the end of the evening everyone starts making as much noise as possible and set fire to the Ogoh-Ogoh in order to get the evil spirits out of their lives or at least drive them insane…
Today, Nyepi day, the airport is completely closed, no travel is allowed, whether by motorized means or by foot, all household electricity is banned and any kind of noise is forbidden. It is a day for introspection and reflection for Balinese families and the most traditional ones even abstain from talking to each other for the whole day. There are no shops or businesses open at all, the only exception being emergency medical services. The only sign of life on the street is the menacing sight of the Pecalang (village police) who patrol the villages in search of wayward locals trying to sneak out but will also firmly escort curious tourists back to their hotel. As you see, a very accomplished production whose only purpose is to ingeniously fool the evil spirits, aroused by the noise last night, into believing that Bali is completely empty so they leave the island.
A true day of silence in which the entire island, populated by over 3 million, quite literally resembles an eerie, post-apocalyptic world with not a soul to be seen, or a voice to be heard. This could only happen in Bali…